A Tale of Two Glasgows
(Left Side) Story and Photos by Mia Madonna. Edited by Jack Sloan.
I had no interest in visiting Glasgow outside of entirely self-indulgent purposes. There’s a song that I love called ‘Glasgow,’ by Catfish and the Bottlemen—it sounds like an ode to a person first, and a city second. I was missing my life in New York in a way I’d never missed anything before—the people first and the city second. If I was going to be in Scotland for a few days, I figured I would grant myself the pleasure of visiting.
The Scot-Rail, I learned, was entirely too easy to navigate compared to the Amtrak or MTA. I still have my ticket up on my walls—it cost me twenty pounds with a student discount. I visited Scotland with May, a childhood friend who had grown up in Southern England. She has a thick English accent but takes great pleasure in imitating Americans. She’s one of those artists who you meet and know there’s nothing else for them to do in this life besides make art. She heeded my wish and spearheaded our weekend in Scotland.
The song ‘Glasgow’ consistently references Succhail Street (which I learned how to spell only after visiting for myself). Succhail Street surprised me in two ways—first, Glasgow is entirely more urban than you think it’d be. Compared to its neighboring city Edinburgh, Glasgow feels industrial beyond its years. I had mixed feelings about the cityscape. Another thing, I had unintentionally arrived in Glasgow on what is known as ‘record store day.’ Following a lovely conversation with Emily, a student at the University of Glasgow and employee of Assai Records, I left with a limited edition vinyl of The Balcony— the Catfish and the Bottlemen album which features the ‘Glasgow’ song which had inspired me to visit in the first place.
The Spoils of Record Store Day.
The rest of the afternoon was spent doing tasteful things—exploring the university, visiting museums which were surprisingly free for all students, and pub-hopping. In cities like Glasgow, with a rich history and a surprisingly young crowd, there are pockets that still grasp onto the straws of Celtic legacy. The Scotia was one of these places, a pub we almost skipped in search of an earlier train back to Edinburgh. We popped in for one round, which turned into two, which turned into befriending Scottish businessmen and local women whose children now live elsewhere.
The University of Glasgow.
A particular man, fascinated by my accent, explained that his daughter is a politician in London and he couldn't imagine how rich it must be to study politics in New York. It made me smile.
It was packed—wall to wall—three people near the back had guitars and were singing songs you’d only know as a UK native. May pulled up some lyrics on her phone so I could sing along with her. “I’m so glad you get to experience this!” She shouted above the music, “This is a proper pub—you can’t even find this in London anymore.”
Upon my request, we took the one of the last trains out of Glasgow that evening—I wanted to savor every second of what brought me there in the first place: music and people who feel like home.
“I wanted to to savor every second of what brought me there in the first place: music and people who feel like home.”
(Right Side) Story and Photos by Gabriel Giacomelli. Edited by Jack Sloan.
‘The Arlington’ in Glasgow.
While many students studying abroad in Europe consider spending a weekend in Scotland — usually in its capital Edinburgh — I would advocate for its less posh counterpart, Glasgow. Edinburgh is, without a doubt, a gorgeous and lush city, but Glasgow has a certain cozy charm that no other city in the United Kingdom can beat.
Glasgow, Scotland’s second largest city, was once a shipbuilding and manufacturing center, and transformed into a cultural and economic hub. It is a vibrant city full of pubs, galleries, and music venues, and is also full of students, adding to its youthful vibe.
In my case, I traveled to Scotland to visit a close friend of mine, Arun, from boarding school, who is a current student at the University of Glasgow.
So, how exactly do Glaswegians and university students have fun in Glasgow? One word: Pubs. Though I wouldn’t be surprised if there were more pubs than schools in the UK, residents of Glasgow feel quite strongly about their establishments, so I asked some of Arun’s friends for some insight.
“There is a very big pub culture here in Glasgow. For example, I live in Finnieston, and I usually go to The 78, which is like a cozy local pub. There are student deals Monday-Wednesday where they serve £3 pints”, says Ines Hayward, a second year philosophy and sociology student in the University of Glasgow.
I love a good deal, or perhaps I am a cheap university student, and many pubs, restaurants and other leisure activities often have excellent student deals. On Mondays, a Scottish burger chain Bread Meats Bread (a brilliant name, I know) offers 50% off on food for students, and they serve fantastic burgers. On Tuesday nights, The Stand Comedy Club has shows for only £5 a ticket, and though I didn’t make it, I was told by Arun and his friends that it has great shows.
What to do in a pub? “Card games, a lot, we talk, some board games, we debrief, it’s quite nice”, says Ruby Startup, a University of Glasgow second year student studying economics and politics. To students, a pub is more than just a drink, it’s a place to unwind, and bond.
Despite being in the midst of midterms, I made sure I tried out at least a handful of Glaswegian pubs popular amongst locals and students alike. Luckily, it is apparently quite common to study in pubs in Glasgow, so during Arun’s lecture, he suggested I stop by The Arlington Bar for a pint while I finished my essay.
Situated in the Woodlands neighborhood, the Arlington Bar is very popular amongst both locals and students, as it is quite close to the university. Its bright red facade is hard to miss, and inside, you’re greeted by the typical warm glow of low-hanging lights, and its walls are adorned with vintage memorabilia from the 1980s. The jukebox was playing a variety of Jamaican reggae and rock, and accompanied by British pop music. The owner was extremely sweet, served me a pint of Peroni, and I cuddled in my corner as I worked on my essay. The pub’s cozy atmosphere warmed me up, and definitely relaxed me.
For a more social vibe, Arun met up with me at The Doublet, one of Glasgow’s most well known pubs. Less funky than the Arlington, yet still very traditional, The Doublet serves an assortment of drinks and is packed with Glaswegians - which is always a good sign. It was dimly lit, warm, and a generally cozy vibe. We chatted and chatted, and overall, it warmed me up from the cold Scottish weather.
Glasgow has an eclectic club scene, and is known to be one of the best UK cities for nightlife. So, going to a club was an essential part of my Glasgow experience.
After some discussion, we decided to go to Sub Club, a techno/house music club. Sub Club is arguably one of the most famous electronic music clubs in the UK, and Subculture, an event, is one of the world’s longest-running underground house nights and the longest weekly house music residency on the planet. DJs Harri and Domenic have been DJing there since its inception in 1994.
The music was fantastic, the people were beautiful, and everyone looked genuinely happy to be there. The DJ booth was right in front of the crowd, and we would all spectate and dance, as she was making magic. The music was never boring, and everyone was so into their dancing that we stayed until 4AM. You should definitely go to Sub Club.
Despite this vibrant social atmosphere, Glasgow was, and certainly still is, a city of immense contrast, with a wide variety of neighborhoods, and each region having its own distinct personality. Considering my stay lasted four days, there was much of the city I couldn’t explore, and instead remained in the famous West End, the University of Glasgow’s location, and also where many students live.
“The West End is one of the nicest neighborhoods I have ever lived in, it’s amazing, and I love it so much. It is very student-y, but very expensive, and many Glaswegians don’t see it as the real Glasgow”, says Ruby.
Though the West End is typically known for its charming shops, and pretty buildings, it also happens to host a range of immigrant communities, all of which have influenced the neighborhood’s identity.
The Great Western Road, Glasgow’s longest street, cuts right through the West End, and near the university region, it is lined with West African and South Asian shops, Middle Eastern restaurants, and Caribbean hair salons. These establishments are frequented by many students to buy spices and other ingredients, and also to enjoy good food.
“In the West End, you can walk past a Sikh temple, an Islamic mosque, a Catholic and Protestant church, all within about 3 minutes from Anderston”, says Self.
Without a doubt, Glasgow is far from being a London or New York. However, as Scotland’s most diverse city, slowly but surely, multicultural communities are redefining what it means to be a Glaswegian.
Even with a changing population, and students that come and go, Glasgow’s most endearing aspect will always be the residents. Whether they are students, immigrants, or native Glaswegians, their sense of hospitality and good nature made the city feel like a home.